By understanding the science behind ingredient biochemistry, as a professional, you remove the guesswork in not only understanding what treatment is best for your client, but also removing an unknown from the equation of product validity and performance. Products that do not work from the template of skin structure and cell biology communicate science that is nonexistent or, at best, seriously flawed.
When reviewing marketing claims or new ingredients, general cell biology and biochemistry allows you to manage the scientific facts. What’s key to note is that cellular processes in skin cells haven’t just suddenly developed new talents. All of these processes in the cell have been going on for millions of years. The biochemistry of the cell should always be the benchmark for ingredient science.
So how should topical ingredients relate to the functioning of the cell?
Cellular and Intercellular Components
All cells are surrounded by a cell membrane. The cell membrane keeps the components of the cell isolated from the external environment. It also serves as the communications interface between the cell and its environment. Biological membranes also compartmentalize cellular functions.
Cell membranes contain various types of lipids, the specific composition of which is important for maintaining membrane fluidity. These lipids have a charged, hydrophilic (water loving) portion of the molecule on the outside of the membrane and a lipophilic (lipid loving) portion sandwiched in between. Contained within cell membranes are also proteins and peptides vital to the cell.
Having ingredients imitate the structure of the biomembrane should be the backbone of every moisturizer or hydrator for your client. Intercellular substances are those ingredients that exist naturally in skin, and that work to hold skin cells together. An arid or dry environment, photoaging, irritation, inflammation, and general intrinsic aging can all greatly reduce the presence of these natural substances in skin. Ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids (linoleic acid, triglycerides, glycerin, phospholipids, and lecithin), and glycosaminoglycans (hyaluronic acid) are essential for helping skin function normally. These ingredients can help keep cells and the substances between cells stay hydrated to maintain health longer, as well as improve the skin surface.
Ceramide and Fatty Acids have an important role in the barrier properties of the cell membrane and therefore the skin. Not only do they limit the loss of water, in addition, they prevent the ingress of harmful substances. Linoleic Acid, Squalane, and Shea lipids, for example, can protect against environmental degradation in addition to having anti-inflammatory and “cell renewal” properties.
Glycosaminoglycans or GAGs are a family of proteoglycans and are located in the intercellular matrix of the dermal connective tissue. The biological functions of proteoglycans include the regulation of cell growth, cell signaling, inflammation, and interactions with growth factors and their receptors. GAGs promote the ability of collagen fibers to retain water and bind moisture into the stratum corneum of the epidermis. The most important GAG in the skin is Hyaluronic Acid (HA). HA is able to bind up to 1000 times its weight in water and acts like a moisture magnet to maintain extra cellular fluidity. The skin contains over 70 percent water and renews it more readily than most other bodily tissues. HA is absolutely vital to its structure and daily maintenance.
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Kimberly J. Heathman has been in the professional and retail skin care industry for more than 25 years, including extensive leadership experience in retail, cosmetics brand and product development, senior level project management with Nordstrom Inc., and such major cosmetic firms as the Estee Lauder Companies Inc. Heathman holds a B.S. in Chemistry and Biology; is a member of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists and The Biochemical Society; and is an educator and published author in Ingredient Chemistry and Skin Care Biochemistry. Heathman is the Executive Vice President-Director of Strategic Marketing and Business Development at GlyMed Plus / Advanced Aesthetics Inc. For more information, please visit www.glymedplus.com.
