Over his 50 year career, Maurice Stein’s Academy Award-winning (Planet of the Apes, 1969) makeup artistry has touched the faces of some of the brightest stars of film, television, commercials and even three United States presidents. He has worked on over 200 films and television shows and has more than 4,000 commercials to his credit. Stein was the first makeup artist inducted to the California Cosmetology Association Hall of Fame and is also included in the National Cosmetology Association Hall of Renown. In 1984, after retiring as a professional makeup artist in the entertainment industry, Stein founded a small cosmetics and special effects supply company in California.
Stein’s Cinema Secrets became an instant hit among makeup artists, studios and many of Hollywood’s most expensive faces. The family-run business outgrew its location within three years and moved to its current location on Riverside Drive. I have been a cosmetologist since 1957. Since that time, I have taken courses in aesthetics and all phases of advanced makeup artistry, including special effects. I have spent many years on the Natural Cosmetology and Aesthetics and Make Up Committee, am a past president the International Society of Make Up Artists, and became a member of the National Cosmetology Association Hall of Renown in 1987. I was also inducted into the California Cosmetology Association Hall of Fame and am a past president of the Hollywood Make Up Artist and Hair Dresser’s Union. Learning from and working with a wide variety of artists and businessmen and women has been the most impactful experience in my career. No matter what I work on, or who I work with, I am always looking for a way to make things better. I have always had a thirst for knowledge and innovation. In the past, if I found that the tools I worked with needed improving, that is what I did. Which is why, today, many of my tools are used on a daily basis as standard items by makeup artists all over the world. I love going to schools and seeing these tools being used on a regular basis. The two that are the most widely used are stainless steel spatulas and palettes. They really help to cut down on double dipping and cross-contamination. The years I spent working as a professional makeup artist in the entertainment industry taught me a variety of techniques that are still the basic methods of makeup application today. However, the real secret to my success is that I have learned how to convey what I know to others simply by learning. As with any profession, there can be moments when an application or procedure can go wrong due to poor management or skill. Personally, I have seen many professionals who try to make up time by rushing or taking short cuts, only to have to go back and spend additional time fixing the finished look. I have been a professional makeup artist for over 50 years and it is still exciting and challenging to me. Each year, when I feel that it is time to put up my makeup tools for good, I get so many e-mails telling me how much younger artists have learned from me. Then I say to myself, “Well, maybe one more year.”
Maurice Stein’s response when asked if there was a particular ingredient he felt was a “super” ingredient:
“If I had to pick one ingredient that does more to make the skin look and feel better than any other, I would have to say pure silicone. I have worked on some of the most expensive and recognized faces in the world. These faces have always had to look as close to perfect as possible. Apply a thin layer of pure silicone and wait about 90 seconds before applying foundation; you will be amazed.”
More from our interview with Maurice Stein:
DERMASCOPE:
What adaptations have you made over the years to stay relevant in the industry?
Maurice:
I have made a point of attending trade shows all over the world in order to monitor many makeup classes with a wide variety of teachers. Many teachers develop a habit of entertaining, but some are on the cutting edge of new techniques that just need some refining. I love taking things to the next level or redesigning them altogether.
DERMASCOPE:
What do you see are upcoming trends in the industry?
Maurice:
The motion picture industry has always played a strong role in influencing new trends. If you look at today’s latest releases, on one side you see Goth and on the other a heavy trend toward retro.
DERMASCOPE:
What do you believe separates the best clinics from the rest?
Maurice:
In the many spas that I have taught in, I have found that the most successful ones are the spas that take the time to find out the needs of the clients and make sure that all staff members address those areas. This should be done with staff meetings so that everyone has a chance to give their input. Spending large amounts of money for first impressions will not do it. Following through is the key ingredient.
DERMASCOPE:
Is there a particular moment or procedure where most professionals go wrong? What could they alter for a better result? continued…
Maurice:
I see many professionals who try to make up time by rushing or taking short cuts, only to have to go back and spend additional time fixing the finished look. Another mistake is when makeup artists, who are with a client for many hours, find that the extended time under hot lights leave faces in need of a touch up. The biggest mistake is to try and touch up with a clean sponge. When there is no makeup on a sponge it serves as a makeup eraser and instead removes the makeup. The best tool to use is a slightly damp, one inch sable brush that will redistribute the makeup.
DERMASCOPE:
Is there a particular ingredient that you feel is a “super” ingredient? If so, why?
Maurice:
If I had to pick one ingredient that does more to make the skin look and feel better than any other, I would have to say pure silicone. I have worked on some of the most expensive and recognized faces in the world. These faces have always had to look as close to perfect as possible. Apply a thin layer of pure silicone and wait about 90 seconds before applying foundation; you will be amazed.
DERMASCOPE:
You wear so many hats in this industry. What is your secret to keeping life in balance and enjoying the journey? continued…
Maurice:
I have been a professional makeup artist for over 50 years and it is still exciting and challenging to me because I have learned to divide my life into many different parts including family, hobbies, sports and several charities.
DERMASCOPE:
Do you or your company support any particular causes or charitable organizations? If so, who and why?
Maurice:
For over 35 years, I have been very actively working with burn survivors and cancer patients. I formulated my own line of cosmetics to satisfy the special needs of the entertainment business and advance standards for clinical applications in the medical industry. I regularly volunteer to help cancer patients and burn survivors use makeup to minimize the appearance of scars and discoloration. Through the American Cancer Society and the assisted help of the National Cosmetology Association, I provide corrective makeup techniques and educational services to the national Look Good, Feel Better Program. I have also worked with cancer patients at City of Hope, burn survivors at The Phoenix Society, five children’s burn units at Shriners Hospitals, the Johns Hopkins Burn Rehabilitation Center, and the Grossman Burn Centers. One day, a person is healthy; the next day they are healing from burns. As a makeup artist, I cannot hide the scars, but I can make them less noticeable with the right foundation. Many times, that can make a monumental difference in a burn survivor’s life.