This year, the oldest children of Generation Z (Gen Z) will turn 24, and these young people are well informed of the latest trends in fashion and beauty. Moreover, they are already no strangers to cosmetic procedures such as facial fillers and body contouring. With thousands of YouTubers, Instagram influencers, and TikTokers handing out beauty advice on their platforms, it is easy to see how masking and cosmetic injections have become the status quo for this young generation.
{mprestriction ids=”3,4,26,18,6,7,8,9,14,18″}
PREVENTION OF AGING
Almost 15 years ago, before invasive procedures and fillers in young individuals were normalized by influencers, neurotoxins were considered taboo. Today, to obtain perfectly chiseled facial features and flawless skin, more 20-year-olds are opting for beauty shots. According to the American Society of Plastic Surgeons, botulinum toxin procedures have increased 28% since 2010 among 20 to 29-year-olds. In fact, Gen Z consumers have been named the biggest group of beauty spenders with females in that generation, individually spending $368 annually on beauty as of 2020 and up 18% from 2019 according to a recent report. A survey by The Pull Agency found that 60% of the Gen Z population purchase beauty products before they turn 14-years-old, compared to 39% of millennials and 23% of those over 55. Another study found that Gen Z are 10% more likely to have a facial care routine than millennials, with three out of four stating they started using a facial moisturizer and cleanser before the age of 18.
The aestheticians of today are more open-minded to neurotoxins and fillers and so are their clients. While it is typically reasonable to start beauty shots in the late 30s, more and more younger women seek preventative cosmetic injections. Clients as young as 20 have started using neurotoxins to prevent forehead lines. While this concept may sound good, numbing facial muscles at such a young age may contribute to muscle atrophy and droopiness down the road. “Baby Botox” is a new technique of toxin application, in which that employs the less is more notion. Younger clients (Millennials and Gen Z) are choosing this entry-level neurotoxin treatment that stipulates fewer units administered superficially to give a fresh-faced natural look. The face looks softer and less frozen allowing for facial expressions.
LUXURY OR NECESSITY
There are plenty of aesthetic treatments to maintain young skin and prevent premature aging. Teenagers have a substantial spending power, and their parents may gladly pay for results-driven treatments and products if they deem them essential. When marketing to younger clients, promote the treatment itself, as well as homecare education and retail products. At their young age, puberty hormones can wreak havoc on their skin so keep the focus on clear and healthy skin. The biggest trend this year is skinimalism – women are wearing less makeup, adapting a simpler skin care routine, and showcasing their natural skin instead of masking it. A simple but effective treatment incorporating cleansing and extractions, high frequency, a hydrating hyaluronic acid treatment mask under an LED panel (415 nanometers and 630 nanometers works best for c. acnes bacteria), an ice globe massage, and sunscreen application can be effective in keeping skin clear. Excessive facial massage recommendations may deter parents from purchasing regular facials for their Gen Z teenagers, deeming it a luxury and not a necessity.
GRASPING GEN Z
According to Nielsen Global Survey from 2018, 80% of the Gen Z population feel strongly that companies should help the environment. In fact, Gen Z are 20% more likely than millennials to exclusively use natural skin care products. They scrutinize ingredients and packaging, search out sustainable and vegan options, as well as non-toxic ingredients. This generation is not impressed by opulent packaging or big brand advertisement, but rather by a brand’s story and mission statement. A new Facebook report found that 60% of Gen Z expect brands to contribute to society. Typically, this is a contribution to sustainability and protecting the environment. Currently, several big cosmetic brands are in process of achieving net zero emissions, sustainable and refillable packaging, and fully biodegradable and upcycled ingredients. As 1.3 billion tons of food is wasted every year, resulting in a carbon and water footprint and releasing greenhouse gas, manufacturers are upcycling imperfect and discarded produce. Exfoliators are being formulated using coffee grounds, leftover lemon and orange peels, and discarded seeds.
The Gen Z homecare protocol should not be overly complicated or include too many products. It should have the basic cleanser, toner, oil control mask, nighttime spot treatment for stubborn breakouts, a plain moisturizer, and a good natural sunscreen, preferably fragrance-free and natural. If a skin care professional retails makeup such as foundation, it will be beneficial to offer a makeup consultation to teenagers to help them select the cleanest and most appropriate coverage that will not interfere with their skin treatments.
ALL ABOUT MILLENIALS
For Millennials, the custom facial structure still stands but should include cleansing, enzyme exfoliation, extractions, a toning and stimulating facial, buccal massage or facial cupping, LED, microcurrent or radio frequency treatment paired with peptides and hyaluronic acid, and sunscreen application. Facial massages promote circulation, move stagnation, tone facial muscles, relieve tension, and de-puff the face. Buccal massage (a massage of the oral cavity) has been gaining popularity in the last two years. Many are also asking for this treatment because of its lymphatic drainage benefits and jaw tension release. Paired with facial cupping, gua sha, and microcurrent, the results of these massages are like that of a nonsurgical face-lift. The key is outstanding results achieved in a noninvasive way which leads to better skin quality, more blood flow to tissue, a stronger barrier, and supple muscle tone. This cannot be achieved by neutoxins or fillers; one must commit to regular facial appointments and homecare.
Homecare options for the Millennial market are abundant. The most popular skin care ingredients of the last two years have been niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, CBD, bakuchiol, turmeric, tretinoin, glycolic acid, and various facial oils. Some of the trending Instagram content of 2020 among Millennials was gua sha and jade roller massage, skin care fridges, jelly masks, probiotic skin care that maintains skin’s microbiome, and personalized skin care routines.
A homecare routine for the Millennial client will include cleansing, toning, a hydrating mask, serum, cream, and sunscreen. Specialty products treating hyperpigmentation, under-eye dark circles, eyelash and eyebrow growth, and lip care are also popular for this demographic. In contrast with Baby Boomers, who shop for neck care, devices, and nighttime moisturizers, Millennials are just getting into antiaging homecare, even though many have had cosmetic injections on a regular basis.
SKIN CARE INNOVATIONS
This year, there was an emergence of a new category of skin care – blue-light blocking products. With quarantine home-isolation and Zoom meetings at an all-time high, people are spending hours in front of their devices for work and otherwise. Blue light, a high-energy visible light, refers to light wavelengths between 390 nanometers to 500 nanometers emitted from phones and computer screens. Blue light penetrates farther into skin than both UVA and UVB and uses a higher level of energy than infrared light triggering oxidative stress, contributing to glycation and photoaging and impairing the barrier. The best combination of ingredients to provide adequate defense against blue light is antioxidants paired with physical sunscreens, such as titanium dioxide and zinc oxide. This type of product is shaping up to be a great fit for all demographics – no matter the age group.
The last few years have ushered in a new standard of diversity and inclusivity within the beauty industry. This past year has been heavily focused on diversity in beauty, with many distributors seeking out rising star brands owned by African Americans and Latinx people. Sunscreens that do not leave annoying, chalky residue, hyperpigmentation products, and hydrating hair masks and oils are just a few of the innovative trending products in the ethnic beauty category. Many salon chains and retailers are taking note and making a commitment to the 15% pledge by reserving a minimum of 15% of their shelf for Black-owned or People of Color (POC) businesses.
COVID-19 & RETAILING
Although COVID-19 had caused quite a drop of cosmetic sales in the first quarter of 2020, by the end of the year, facial cosmetic sales in the United States pulled through, generating approximately 1.9 billion United States dollars. The boom in pampering and self-care beauty categories included candles, aromatherapy, and detoxification products including sales in skin, nail, and haircare products. In the past, retail sales of beauty products have largely come from brick-and-mortar stores, with a relatively low share of revenue flowing through the internet. But during COVID-19, with consumers turning to online purchasing in lieu of shopping in stores, online sales of cosmetics and skin and hair care products have grown 25% in the first half of 2020 (January through July) compared with the same year-ago period. Considering that Gen Z and Millennials do most of their shopping online, this is a great way to keep them repurchasing the correct homecare products, even in times of lockdown and restrictions on personal care services.
E-RETAIL
Many aestheticians have taken note, creating shopping carts on their websites and taking advantage of manufacturers’ drop-shipping programs. Online retailing is as easy as setting up a shopping cart option on the spa’s website. It can be done by a website designer and the payments can be processed by regular credit cards or by online payment systems – all that is needed is a business bank account and the right software. To successfully retail products online, approval from the manufacturer is needed, however, most prohibit underselling. Underselling essentially means selling below the manufacturer’s suggested retail price (MSRP). While it may not be an issue to sell cheaper in-person at the spa, selling online at discounted prices is discouraged. In addition to pricing issues, aestheticians who sell professional products on their website have to make sure the directions and skin type information is listed in a detailed fashion. When clients purchase online, they are often confused as to which product suits them best and how to utilize it (unless consulted by the aesthetician prior to purchasing). Try to set up a consultation, possibly a virtual one, when seeing new clients purchasing professional products from the website. Clients will be pleasantly surprised to be directed to the best and correct products unique for their skin.
{/mprestriction}
Dasha Saian Marchese is the co-founder and current CEO of Saian and has over 21 years of experience in the spa industry. In addition to her business and marketing degree, she is a licensed aesthetician, certified nutrition and wellness consultant, official ambassador of the Aesthetics International Association (AIA), and certified family herbalist. Marchese is on the Editorial Advisory Board of DERMASCOPE Magazine; she gives lectures and classes internationally and regularly contributes to global trade publications.
