Cosmetics have been an integral part of human cultures for thousands of years, but today the cosmetics industry rakes in over 50 billion dollars each year. The industry has undoubtedly come a long way from the copper and lead ore that the ancient Egyptians used to create the most primitive forms of makeup. Indeed, each year companies offer more scientifically advanced products due to developments in technology, ingredients, and formulas. It is important to understand the history of makeup to really be able to appreciate industry trends of today and the outlook for future trends.
History of Cosmetics
The first use of cosmetics dates back to the ancient Egyptians and their use of kohl (a mixture of metal, lead, copper, ash and burnt almonds). They painted this early makeup around their eyes, not only to enhance appearance, but ward off the evil eye and dangerous spirits. Cleopatra was also said to have used a lip stain that got its hue from ground carmine beetles, while other women used a combination of clay and water to color their lips. The ancient Greeks and Romans also painted their faces with powders made of ground up minerals and stones.
This trend did not last, though. Makeup became less colorful as time went on. From the Middle Ages until the end of the 19th century, pale skin was deemed the ideal and women used arsenic, lead, mercury and even leeches to give themselves the pale appearance that they desired.
At the dawn of the 20th century, products that we recognize today, such as lipsticks, mascaras and nail polishes, began to emerge. Portrait photography, affordable mirrors, and, most notably, motion pictures all played a role in the development and mainstream use of cosmetics. In 1914, Max Factor, who provided wigs to Hollywood studios, developed a greasepaint foundation that would not cake or crack, marking Factor’s first major success in the cosmetic industry. Factor would go on to develop additional products, including lip gloss and eyebrow pencils. He also eventually popularized the word makeup. He began promoting his makeup to the public in the 1920s by making claims that consumers could look like their favorite movie stars.
Meanwhile, in 1915, T.L. Williams started the Maybelline Company after he discovered that his sister, Mabel, had developed an ingenious way to make eyelashes look striking. Williams distilled Mabel’s formula of petroleum jelly and coal dust into cake form and eventually found great success in selling it to the public. Other industry giants including Revlon and Estee Lauder surfaced around the same time. Persuasive marketing efforts and rapidly improved products sold women on makeup within a few short years and they have not looked back.
Today’s Trends and Tomorrow’s Outlook: Multi-Purpose Products
Professional makeup artists have been perfecting techniques to get ordinary beauty products to multi-task for years. Cosmetics companies are now using advanced technology to develop multi-purpose products that emulate these techniques.
Foundations are no longer designed to simply smooth complexions. Many now boast different ingredients to target varying skin needs, such as salicylic acid for acne or jojoba oil for dry skin. Numerous brands have also created multipurpose stains with a creamy consistency and a neutral color that can be used on cheeks, lips and eyes. Some shades of these creamy all-over-color sticks also offer a little shimmer or gold sparkle, so that it can glide across eyebrow bones, shoulders or cleavage as a highlighter.
Although multi-functional products are a trend that seems to be here to stay, increasing segmentation is predicted for the future of this category. Clearer lines are expected to be drawn between multi-purpose products whose various features are combined for symbiotic purposes and those that are combined to provide cost, time and space benefits.
Natural Makeup
Although we have come a long way from the days of using toxic and deadly mixtures to enhance our looks, there are still some dangerous chemicals lurking in our favorite makeup products. Raised awareness of these harmful ingredients, combined with the ever-growing green lifestyle movement, has resulted in many consumers seeking out organic or natural makeup. These earthy makeup lines are completely free from any synthetic constituents and contain only pure healthy forms of ingredients. A popular option for natural makeup devotees is mineral makeup, which is formulated from naturally occurring minerals such as zinc, lapis lazuli, and titanium dioxide. Mineral makeup is free from fragrances and oils that can irritate the skin, contains zinc (which is good for your epidermis) and also comes with the claim that it benefits the skin in ways that are impossible by mainstream synthetic makeup.
As consumers protest everything from reports of makeup toxicity, animal testing, or whether or not makeup packaging can be recycled, the battle for safe and environmentally friendly makeup will likely continue for years to come.
Makeup for Men
Although ancient Egyptian men wore makeup alongside their female counterparts, most men in the 20th century have avoided makeup so that they would not be labeled as feminine. In recent years, though, more men have admitted to wearing makeup in public, leading industry influencers to coin terms such as guy liner and manscara.
The cosmetics industry is excited about the thought of expanding sales to the other half of the population, but it is also apparent that selling makeup to men will take a little more strategy and time. The key to men’s makeup is creating an undercover look that uses textures that blend into the skin with a traceless finish and subtle shades that enhance the complexion. Right now, men are showing the most interest in products that hide flaws, such as foundations and concealers, but powder-based eyeliners used to brighten eyes are also gaining in popularity among male consumers.
Although these trends are likely to remain during years to come, if the history of makeup has taught us anything, it is that it only takes one person with one genius idea to change the forecast of the industry entirely.
Lauren Balukonis serves as an account executive within the beauty division at 5W Public Relations, working with both entrepreneurs and established brands. Her extensive media relationships have allowed her to secure top tier features and profiles for her clients on a consistent basis. Prior to joining 5W PR, Balukonis worked for a boutique Miami public relations agency that specialized in luxury lifestyle brands.
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