From Micro to Hydro
by Adriana Perez-Nakamura, licensed aesthetician
With so many treatments to choose from, it can be overwhelming for a spa manager or owner to decide what new services to bring into the spa. There is a fine balance between what clients want, what will give the best results, the cost per treatment, and the return on investment. The spa also needs to consider whether a certain service is a trend or a tried-and-true treatment that will be worth the investment long-term.
This article will break down two different exfoliation services that have been around for some time: microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion. While neither treatment is necessarily better than the other and both share similar results and features, it is important for spa owners to fully understand each treatment in order to choose the most appropriate service for their clientele as well as their bottom line.
MICRO & HYDRO
Microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion are two separate methods of mechanical exfoliation. Microdermabrasion exfoliates skin with either an abrasive diamond-tip wand or with a wand that sprays crystals (usually made of aluminum oxide) onto skin. Hydrodermabrasion exfoliates by spraying a saline solution combined with other skin care ingredients like alpha and beta hydroxy acids at a high pressure to slow away dead skin.
Both exfoliation methods are essentially going to have the same effect on skin, which is disrupting the stratum corneum. This disruption stimulates the production of new cells deep within the living layers of skin, as well as cellular turnover. The result is increased blood flow in the dermis and better cellular nutrition, which enhances skin’s elasticity and texture. However, the one major difference between the two is that hydrodermabrasion infuses skin with moisture and hydration as it exfoliates.
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HOW TO CHOOSE
Effectiveness
First and foremost, the right equipment must function properly so it can do the task it was designed for. This may seem like a given, but not all machines are built properly and with care or precision. Several undesirable results can come from a poorly functioning machine, the first being that service providers will not want to use it. If the machine’s handpiece is constantly breaking or if the spray or suction is unreliable, the treatment results will be subpar. When a service provider must spend most of their treatment time fumbling with a poorly functioning machine, the client will likely question their provider’s ability to perform the treatment, but they may not always express their concerns. In turn, this can lead to inconsistent results for the client.
After a while, service providers will likely not want to offer the treatment, and clients will stop asking for it. Clients may even stop coming in for treatments altogether. The equipment will sit unused, taking up valuable space and not bringing in revenue.
ROI
In general, a microdermabrasion machine will result in a quicker return on investment (ROI). This is because the cost per treatment is relatively low, especially for diamond-tip microdermabrasion. For a crystal machine, the cost of crystals needs to be considered, but their general cost is minimal overall.
Depending on the brand of the hydrodermabrasion machine, the ROI could go either way. To begin with, the initial cost of a machine, regardless of the brand, is usually higher than a microdermabrasion unit. Furthermore, when the hydrodermabrasion manufacturer requires their spa accounts to solely use their solutions, the ROI may be lower. This may result in a higher cost per service which will likely increase every year as the manufacturer raises prices.
The higher the cost per service, the more a spa must charge for that service to see a profit. If a spa is in a busy area with a client base that can afford pricier services on a regular basis, it may not be an issue. However, if a spa is in an area where client incomes are not as high, or the interest and demand are not there, they may not book hydrodermabrasion services regularly. If clients are not receiving those services regularly, the spa may lose out on income not just from irregular service bookings but also from products for the service that sit in cabinets and expire.
For some spas, going with a hydrodermabrasion machine from a well-known brand might be the best choice, even if the brand requires that their products only be used with their machines. In this case, the spa’s clients want and expect major name-brand treatments.
However, if a spa’s clientele is interested only in results and not necessarily a brand name, there are many hydrodermabrasion machine options with better returns on investment. The machines with better returns on investment tend to be those that have zero restrictions on the products service providers can use with them.
Ongoing Brand Support
One of the biggest advantages of choosing a reputable company to purchase from, as opposed to buying a less expensive offshore brand, is the ongoing support a spa will likely receive. Since trends and technologies change so quickly in the skin care world, training and continuing education are essential to staying relevant and continuing to be profitable. Most importantly, if something were to go wrong with the machine, it is nice to have a company representative on hand who can troubleshoot issues. On that note, if the issue is beyond the help of a representative, a good company will likely have warranties in place to cover any repairs as needed.
CLIENT QUALIFICATIONS
Both microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion are good for treating dry skin, hyperpigmentation, blackheads, fine lines, and improving skin texture. They are also excellent options for higher Fitzpatrick skin types because the practitioner has more control over the treatment. This means there are fewer chances for scarring and hyperpigmentation to occur. An additional benefit of both services is that there is little to no downtime associated with either. A client could receive a treatment in the middle of the day, then go back about their business with minimal to no redness.
While both treatments are generally safe for most skin types, hydrodermabrasion is viewed by many skin care professionals as being gentler and less abrasive than microdermabrasion. Therefore, for clients with sensitive skin, hydrodermabrasion would be a better option to start with because it is both gentle and hydrating.
Contraindications for both treatments include active acne, sun burns, irritated skin, broken skin, and rosacea. Additional contraindications include isotrentinoin use, diabetes, active cold sores, and recent fillers, neuro toxin injections, or facial waxing.
TREATMENT PLANS
Hydrodermabrasion is a good treatment for almost any skin type, including aging, hyperpigmented, oily, and dry skin. It is especially good for sensitive skin types because it is both less abrasive than microdermabrasion and more hydrating. For a client with sensitive skin, infusing their skin with serums that are hydrating and rich in antioxidants is the best approach.
For clients who want to address hyperpigmentation, signs of aging, and even light acne, serums containing alpha or beta hydroxy acids and antioxidants are good options. Clients will see visible results with a single treatment; however, the best results are cumulative. In order to see lasting improvements, it is best to offer a series of treatments that are spaced out every four to six weeks.
Microdermabrasion is also good for most skin types. It can address issues like aging, hyperpigmentation, fine lines, dryness, and more. As with hydrodermabrasion, it can also be used on sensitive skin, and the results are cumulative. However, the practitioner should always do a thorough consultation and a patch test prior to starting a treatment.
If the skin care professional is using diamond-tip wands, they should start with a fine to medium grit. When working with skin types that are more sensitive, one to two passes per treatment is adequate to begin with. If the client’s skin allows, this conservative approach can be expanded to include stronger suction, medium to coarser grit tips or crystals, and the eventual introduction of enzymes or chemical peels.
The recommended treatment frequency for microdermabrasion is three treatments done at 14-day intervals, followed by three treatments done at 21-day intervals. After that, maintenance treatments can be done once every six weeks.
Something to keep in mind is that many clients tend to view hydrodermabrasion and microdermabrasion facials as pick-me-up types of treatments. That is, one-off treatments that can easily be done before a big event (like a wedding or before going on vacation) so their skin will look nice.
It is best for the skin care professional to caution clients against getting these treatments done immediately before any type of event, even if the client has had treatments in the past. There is always a chance that skin will react negatively to a treatment, so it is best to start preparing a client with a series of treatments well in advance of their event. If the client does not have an event but is going on vacation, especially one where they will spend a lot of time outdoors in the sun, they should wait until after they return to have a treatment done.
Following a hydrodermabrasion or microdermabrasion treatment, clients should be given products to help hydrate and soothe their skin, as well as protect it from sun exposure. Mild flaking can occur post-treatment, so the professional must advise the client about this and explain how often to use the aftercare products to keep their skin looking its best until the flaking resolves. When a client is receiving a series of treatments, the homecare regimen should also include a serum that will brighten their skin and combat any possible hyperpigmentation.
MACHINE-BASED EXFOLIATION
Although any type of exfoliation achieves the same general results (like sloughing away dead skin cells) and allows for better product penetration, machine-based exfoliation is more beneficial in a couple of different ways.
The first benefit is the vacuum element present in both microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion. The proper use of the vacuum suction at a decreased pressure can result in lymphatic drainage. Some benefits of lymphatic drainage include reduced puffiness, improved circulation, and a healthier look to skin overall. The vacuum is also partially responsible for stimulating the production of new skin cells, collagen, and elastin.
The second benefit is that the practitioner has more control over the treatment. Several elements of the treatment can be fine-tuned in order to meet the needs of the client’s skin. In the case of both hydrodermabrasion and microdermabrasion, the practitioner can adjust the vacuum pressure, and they are in control of how many passes they perform. They can even pinpoint areas that need extra attention, such as areas that are more hyperpigmented than others.
Aside from these practical skin care benefits of machine-based exfoliation, there is also the benefit of being able to generate more income. A spa can charge more for a machine-based service.
At the end of the day, both microdermabrasion and hydrodermabrasion are going to give excellent results when they are in the hands of a competent and thorough skin care professional. When spa owners or managers research new treatments, they should always look at the entire picture before purchasing. They need to take into consideration the type of clientele they have and the services they want, their skin care needs, and the price points they are comfortable paying. Owners and managers also need to pay attention to the initial cost of bringing in a new treatment, cost per treatment, the ease at which professionals can perform the treatments, the cost of repairs, and ROI. Once each of these factors is considered, it is easier to decide which treatment makes the most sense for both the spa’s clients and its bottom line.
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Adriana Perez-Nakamura has been an aesthetician for over 12 years and has owned and operated her skin care studio (Skincare By Adriana) since 2013. In addition to her aesthetics career, she is a freelance beauty and skin care copywriter specializing in SEO. For facts and other information in this article, she consulted with Altair Instruments, leaders in microdermabrasion technology.
