Facial peels offer an effective and practically noninvasive way to restore and rejuvenate skin. Acid peels have been incorporated in skin care practices for decades. Chemical peeling (chemexfoliation) is a skin care treatment where acids of varying strengths are applied to skin. Whether the acid comes from natural or synthetic sources, it exfoliates skin and stimulates a cycle of cellular regeneration and skin restoration.
The use of chemical peels can be traced all the way back to ancient Egypt. Thousands of years ago the Egyptians successfully created blends for superficial peels by combining animal oils, salt, alabaster, and sour milk to smooth and rejuvenate skin. Later, the Greeks and Romans used poultices of mustard, sulfur, and limestone to exfoliate and improve skin texture. By the late 1800s, medical doctors began using phenol, or carbolic acid, to diminish hyperpigmentation and acne scars. Today, carbolic acid is used for deep chemical peels to reduce severe scars, prominent wrinkles, and pre-cancerous lesions.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology, there are three different types of chemical peels: superficial, medium, and deep. Alpha hydroxy acids are often superficial peels while beta hydroxy acids, like salicylic acid and trichloroacetic acid, are used for medium peels.
Phenol is used for deep peels. It is usually recommended by a physician and not performed more than once every few years. Up to two to three medium peels annually are recommended for fresher, healthier-looking complexions. By contrast, light, superficial peels are considered safe on a monthly basis. Both medium and superficial peels can be performed by a skin care professional in a medical spa or a holistic skin care practice.
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PEEL CONTRAINDICTIONS
It is important to make sure that, after a proper skin analysis, clients receive a peel that is the most beneficial for their skin type. This will help avoid adverse reactions, such as acneiform eruptions, allergic reactions, toxicity, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. These side effects are more likely to occur from medium or deep peels. Clients with type III to VI on the Fitzpatrick phototyping scale are also more likely to experience them, as well as those with a history of keloids, herpes infections, or those who have recently taken isotretinoin.
Deep peels are painful and can produce scarring or hyperpigmentation. Moreover, clients may feel the need to hibernate post-peel because they must soak their skin and apply topical ointments daily for about two weeks to encourage new skin growth. Skin redness can last for months. Clients might need several follow-up visits due to loss of the cutaneous barrier, infections (bacterial, herpetic, and candidal), delayed healing, milia, and textural changes.
GOING NATURAL
Peels do not have to be aggressive to be effective. Similar results can be achieved by administering a number of superficial peels with acids isolated from plants, instead of a single medium or deep chemical peel. There have been ample cases when a series of specifically selected alternative peels – using mild, naturally derived acids and enzymes – has completely restored complexions, including skin with depressed and hypertrophic scars and melasma.
Peels from natural enzymes, acids, and whole plant extracts can result in less stress, skin irritation, and downtime. In addition, the danger of adverse reactions is much lower because natural ingredients usually contain a harmonious symphony of organic skin-supportive phytonutrients.
In addition to enzymes and natural acids isolated from fruits, plants, or specific types of soil, alternative peels allow the option of using spicules and whole plant powders and extracts. For example, apple extract contains a blend of malic, glycolic, lactic, and citric alpha hydroxy acids, along with vitamins and antioxidants. Fresh water or marine sponges, when dried and ground, can serve as an effective skin resurfacing agent because the skeletons of sponges can be broken into differently shaped microcrystals (spicules) made from natural silica. Spicules isolated from the rest of the sponge can penetrate skin to help fill in lines and wrinkles. It also encourages fibroblast regeneration, scar reduction, and de-hyperpigmentation.
One of the most popular conventional skin rejuvenating treatments is the superficial retinoic acid peel. It is a synthetic analogue of vitamin A (retinol) which has been shown to improve pigmentary abnormalities with concentrations that vary from 1% up to 9%. “Acids do not work like retinoids, which repair skin by kick-starting inflammation,” says Ranella Hirsh, an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Boston University School of Medicine.
Unlike retinoic acid, alpha hydroxy acids can be used for light peels to treat uneven pigmentation without causing inflammation. Alpha hydroxy acids are suitable for all skin types, except those with acute acne and rosacea, as well as sensitized complexions. They can naturally occur in fruits, sugar cane, sour milk, tomatoes, and more. The most popular alpha hydroxy acid peels are made from lactic acid and glycolic acid. Synthetic forms of the above can be found in conventional formulations.
ACIDS
Beta Hydroxy Acids
Beta hydroxy acid (salicylic acid) is used primarily for oily skin and acne-prone complexions. It occurs naturally in the bark of willow trees and many other medicinal plants. It can be used for chemical peeling and has antibacterial and antifungal properties. Concentrations of 20% to 30% serve as a skin-drying and peeling agent. Salicylic acid can also function as a comedolytic agent to reduce and prevent the formation of new comedones.
Salicylic acid can also be used as a primer over areas of melasma or hyperpigmentation before applying mandelic acid, or other acids or enzymes, for deeper penetration into skin. Concentrated extracts of aspen bark (Populus tremula), white willow bark (Salix alba), and meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) are beneficial because they contain high concentrations of natural silicates. Acid peels like these are timed peels and must be neutralized with water or 1% bicarbonate solution.
Mandelic Acid
Mandelic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid extracted from bitter almonds that provides a slow and uniform penetration. It is suitable for all skin types and works by breaking up the bond between dead skin cells, leading to an increased rate of cellular turnover. Improvements associated with mandelic acid include significant reductions in melasma, as well as a reduction in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and lentigines. Mandelic acid is not melanotoxic and is safe to use on darker complexions. Because it also has antibacterial properties, it is an effective acid to use on acne and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. Mandelic acid also has synergetic effects when used with other pigment-correcting treatments.
Fulvic Acid
Fulvic acid is safe for all skin types. It works well as a natural, corrective solution for sensitive skin, as well as rosacea- or acne-prone complexions. While not widely known in the skin care industry, it is one of the most effective, healing, and gentle ingredients available. Fulvic acid is a component of the humic structure in abundant, composting soil, as it is formed by plant decay.
A fulvic acid peel can calm inflammation and deliver gentle exfoliation at the same time. Effective concentrations of fulvic acid vary. It can be safely used in very high concentrations of 80% and above. This all-natural acid is extremely gentle and assists in every stage of cellular rejuvenation. It neutralizes toxins and enhances the transport of nutrients to skin cells. After a single application, skin will be brighter, rejuvenated, and more toned.
Succinic Acid
Succinic acid can work well for all skin types. It can be found naturally in broccoli, sugar beets, and sauerkraut. For centuries, Russia and other Eastern European countries have extracted it from Baltic amber, known for its cellular-rejuvenating and antiaging properties. It traditionally comes from the distillation of amber, a warm golden-colored gem. This process yields 3% to 8% succinic acid, a powerful antioxidant that helps reduce toxins and free radicals. It is most beneficial for dry, aging, or wrinkled complexions and can be used in combination with other superficial peels.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid is an acid suitable for every complexion. It is found naturally in grains, such as barley and wheat, and is a dicarboxylic acid that offers a multi-functional peel. It is an effective antibacterial agent, ideal for treating acne, rosacea, and other inflammatory skin conditions. Azelaic acid differs from alpha or beta hydroxy acids because it is suitable for sensitive complexions and causes less irritation. It can deliver skin-brightening and rejuvenating results and is not overly drying like beta hydroxy acid.
In addition to isolated acids in plants, extracts from the entire plant can be used, which usually contain more than one acid. For example, green apple extract contains a blend of malic, glycolic, lactic, and citric acids, along with vitamins and antioxidants. These natural alpha hydroxy acids provide effective exfoliation, skin hydration, and brightening results.
Enzymes
The enzymatic peel is a gentle exfoliating treatment that uses natural enzymes to remove the top layer of skin. This immediately reveals refreshed, brighter, and smoother skin with practically no side effects or downtime. It is ideal for clients who want a natural approach to skin care. Enzymatic peels can be given to pregnant or breastfeeding clients without potential side effects to their babies and are safe for people with compromised immune systems.
Kombucha
The enzymes found in Kombucha extract create all-natural, superficial peels. It also has a natural blend of butyric and gluconic carbonic acids which gently exfoliate and hydrate skin. Kombucha also contains lactic and malic alpha hydroxy acids that can bind cellular adhesion molecules and reduce the calcium ion concentration that disrupts cellular adhesion. This helps exfoliate skin, resulting in improved skin texture, cellular growth, and skin rejuvenation.
Fruit Enzymes
Enzymes found in pumpkins, papaya, and pineapples are very effective ingredients in natural peels. Pumpkin contains proteases, which can break down proteins and peptides. Even dried and powdered pumpkin can be used as an exfoliating and skin rejuvenating agent because, in addition to enzymes, it also contains antioxidants, beta-keratin, and many other vitamins and minerals that help nourish and brighten skin.
Pineapple contains the famous proteolytic enzyme bromelain. Bromelain helps break down proteins that cause build-up. It has the ability to disintegrate excess surface cells and improve skin texture. The tropical fruit papaya is a well-known source of the papain enzyme. This enzyme provides superficial exfoliation and is especially effective when used on acne-prone complexions.
Protocol for a Mandelic-Acid Peel
This is a superficial peel that is beneficial for every complexion, especially for hyperpigmentation, acne, dry, and aging skin types.
Step 1: Steam and cleanse skin using a botanical cleanser.
Step 2: Decongest skin using hydrodermbrasian or manual techniques.
Step 3: Mix one-part mandelic acid with three parts warm water or warm herbal tea made with calendula, dandelion root, and parsley.
Step 4: Apply the acid on hyperpigmented areas and leave it on for 30 to 45 seconds.
Step 5: Apply the acid on the entire face and neck.
Step 6: If desired, use a green phototherapy device on the areas of persistent hyperpigmentation, like dermal melasma. It could be a cold laser with a 525-nanometer range or LED therapy. Use for 30 seconds on problem areas.
Step 7: Remove the acid using compresses with warm water or warm herbal tea.
Step 8: Proceed by applying a skin brightening mandelic acid mask containing bitter almond extracts.
Step 9: Use a phototherapy device for better benefits. The color of the device is selected based on the complexion.
Step 10: Remove the mask with warm water or warm herbal compresses.
Step 11: Mist skin with a botanical toner.
Step 12: Complete the procedure with the application of a serum, moisturizer, and eye cream selected for the client’s complexion.
Step 13: Protect the client’s skin with the application of a zinc oxide-based sunscreen.
This particular protocol is effective and can deliver corrective and visible results with 100% natural ingredients. It can be effectively used in a medical spa or a holistic skin care practice.
Chemical peels have been a staple in skin care for centuries and continue to be one of the most popular treatments today. There are many choices of peels to choose from. However, stellar results are achievable with natural ingredients and can work as an alternative to more aggressive methods. In doing so, they may discover results just as impressive as with traditional peeling methods but with fewer overall complications.
References:
- Vashi, N. A. (2004, April). Cosmetic Interventions for Dyschromia: Chemical Peels. The Aestheticians Journal. Retrieved December 22, 2022, from https://www.bumc.bu.edu/derm/files/2017/03/Vashi-Cosmetic-Interventions-for-Dyschromia-30-32.pdf
- Roberts, W. E. (2004). Chemical Peeling in ethnic/dark skin. Dermatologic Therapy, 17(2), 196–205. https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1396-0296.2004.04020.x
- Winter is the best time for a chemical peel: Learn about your options. Allen Spadin, MD. (n.d.). Retrieved December 22, 2022, from https://www.doctorsapadin.com/blog/winter-is-the-best-time-for-a-chemical-peel-learn-about-your-options
- Chemical or Micro Peels. University of Iowa Hospitals & Clinics. (2016, July 2). Retrieved December 22, 2022, from https://uihc.org/health-topics/chemical-or-micro-peels
- Mayo Foundation for Medical Education and Research. (2022, January 21). Chemical Peel. Mayo Clinic. Retrieved December 22, 2022, from https://www.mayoclinic.org/tests-procedures/chemical-peel/about/pac-20393473
- Fulton, J. E., & Porumb, S. (2004). Chemical peels. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 5(3), 179–187. https://doi.org/10.2165/00128071-200405030-00006
- Enzymatic peel: Top 5 benefits of using it over chemical peel. Flawless Laser & Med Spa. (2022, September 27). Retrieved December 22, 2022, from https://saflawless.com/enzymatic-peel-top-5-benefits-of-using-it-over-chemical-peel/
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Elina Fedotova is the formulator and CEO of Elina Organics, an award-winning cosmetic chemist, and an aesthetician. She handmakes her professional skin care line in her laboratory using holistic principles and organic ingredients from around the world. In 2007, she founded the Association of Holistic Skin Care Practitioners (AHSCP), a nonprofit organization that provides ongoing training and education for professionals.
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