Breakthrough science meets the oldies but goodies in the clinic room stand-off between the equally popular trichloroacetic acid peels and Jessner’s peel. Both results-oriented chemical peels, these treatments enhance the superficial sins of last night as well as the deeper signs of a life well lived. The fact that these two friendly fighters are similar yet different allows for both chemical peel combinations to maintain a relevance in every skilled practitioner’s treatment room, whether in medical aesthetics, a day spa, an aesthetics teaching hub, or a sole practitioner setting. {mprestriction ids=”3,4,26,18,6,7,8,9,14,18,43,44″}
Improving the first glance overall look of skin is only part of the tease of undergoing chemical peel treatments. Used on the facial quadrant as well as on segmented body treatments, trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s peels remain two of the most effective chemical peel treatments and rank high in the world of client satisfaction. Safe, remarkably controllable in result, and requiring little post-care for the client, it’s easy to sell clients on the cellular change that combination chemical peels of these strengths can address. Internal cellular matrix health enhancements from trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s treatments as well as external regeneration and rejuvenation of the layers of the epidermis from fine lines, wrinkles, acne scars, and pigmentation to texture and elasticity all fall under the fair game category when trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s peels are called to centerstage. Why use one versus the other?
CHARACTERISTICS
The Jessner’s peel, primarily known for its assertiveness in the esteemed court of skin resurfacing effects, proudly wears the name of its inventor, Dr. Max Jessner. The chemicals at play in the Jessner’s peel include lactic and salicylic acid, enhanced by an ingredient fondly referred to as resorcinol to open the playing field for a deeper result that cannot be provided by the popular salicylic and lactic combinations alone. Resorcinol in a product catches the ear of many who suffer from conditions like acne, eczema, and psoriasis, as it is successfully used to treat these and other skin disorders with its talent of cleanly removing rough, tough skin and scaly, unsightly patches. When combined, salicylic acid, lactic acid, and resorcinol grant more predictable and broader change to the top and within skin.
Trichloroacetic acid concentrations can be changed depending on what depth of peel is necessary to unveil the truth below the layers of skin and reveal fresh, new skin. Able to specifically target problems such as actinic keratosis and melasma or hyperpigmentation with great accuracy, all skin types can use trichloroacetic acid peels. That being said, the deepest trichloroacetic acid peels should be restricted to clients at levels I to III, maybe IV, on the Fitzpatrick scale because of skin sensitivity and burning or pigmentary reactions.
Peeling is likely, if not guaranteed, from both trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s peels. Nevertheless, trichloroacetic acid peels are more customizable due to the chemical combinations that are labeled based on concentration levels. Percentage concentrations ranging between 10 and 35 deliver superficial cellular peeling often considered shower time sloughing, while medium-depth peels utilize 40% to 50% concentrations of trichloroacetic acid peel solutions. When the treatment administered delivers a chemical concentration of trichloroacetic acid greater than 50%, a client has to enjoy multiple days at home, go through the darkening and then lightening of the concerned pigmentation areas, experience sheeting and the need to trim off the fly-away skin, and risk a greater chance for infection, but the result is tight, smooth, and more evenly pigmented skin.
HOMECARE
Both trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s peeling treatments play nicest in the sandbox when partnered with proper homecare. Helpful routines include the following steps.
- Lactic-based cleansers and exfoliators for two months prior, stopping one week out from peel
- Vitamin C applications every morning three to six weeks in advance, subsiding a week prior and resuming a week after peeling is completed
- Peptide topicals and hyaluronic or sodium hyaluronate serums
- Eye hydration
- Retinol or retinol alternatives, discontinuing a week prior to peeling treatment and beginning a week following the end of peeling
- Sunscreen
Some professionals may get distracted by the tingling sensations, redness, and peeling concerns and forget to consider what kind of eye treatments and sunscreens are best for trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s peeling clients. However, the answer is simple: the ones the client will use all the time, every day. Hydrating eye treatments, sun avoidance, and sun care or reflection care are the most critical parts of successful chemical peeling endeavors. Often forgotten, indoor environments can cause degradation to skin as well. Have three options of eye treatments and three options of sunscreen consistencies on your retail shelves to meet the client where they are in terms of eye and protection products post-peel.
Focus on the need for the client to hydrate the delicate skin around the eye and lip area with an eye care product and a comfortable-to-wear physical blocker sunscreen. It is helpful to have them s pray physical sunscreen fluids during the more active peeling time period and apply a duster of a mineral sunscreen powder throughout the day. The peeling will likely be visible. You can protect but not really hide it. Lean in and know you are doing good things to enhance the matrix of the client’s skin and correct visible concerns. Remember, discomfort takes on a whole new level when one tries to rub mineral sunscreen over actively peeling skin, so choose carefully and tread gently. The largest organ of the body deserves care.
The newest kids on the block in homecare products make your old reliable trichloroacetic acid and Jessner’s peeling treatments even more the belles of the ball than before. These two powerhouse peels remain renowned for successfully removing the indications more egregious to the client than meets the eye and successfully place smiles even upon the most unassuming client. Refine your technique and have fun changing skin one client at a time.
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A native San Diegan and University of California, Los Angeles alumna, Tami Chance Assaf gained experience from the medical laser industry and is currently an aesthetician for clinics in La Jolla, California and Palm Desert, California. She also consults for a variety of projects within the aesthetic industry. Assaf’s passion for continuing education and keeping a pulse on the latest in the skin care industry is reflected in her holistic approach to taking care of her client’s skin from the inside and outside. As an aesthetician for RevivaMed La Jolla and an educator for CA Botana, Assaf shares her love for skin care techniques and the science behind getting great results with her clients, friends, fellow skin care professionals, as well as students in the industry. Assaf resides in La Jolla, California with her daughter Kristine, son Kaden, husband Billy, and their border collie/labrador retriever Chloe.
