When it comes to body care, there are a plethora of options to choose from. Whether you are in the market for natural, synthetic, or a mixture of both, there are ingredients that should be avoided to maintain the integrity of clients’ skin. There are many chemical compounds that make up body care. Common ingredients can be broken down into categories, both natural and synthetic. There are natural and synthetic actives to avoid or use in small quantities to achieve smooth, supple, and hydrated skin that professionals and their clients are looking for.
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OILS
Natural skin care lines traditionally have clients’ trust to be safe for all skin types; however, this is not always the case when clients have compromised skin. While tea tree oil, peppermint, and citrus extracts all have beautiful aromatic qualities, they can be damaging to the skin barrier when used in excess. This applies to products that are manufactured by a skin care company or if clients decide to make their own scrubs at home. Essential oils are something to watch out for when deciding on a skin care line. Many oils have astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial properties that can breakdown the natural moisture barrier over time. For example, cinnamon essential oil is a common ingredient in body scrubs with its warming aroma, circulation boosting properties, and stimulating effect. While cinnamon oil is widely recognized for its strong antiseptic and tonic properties, it can cause irritation when used in high concentrations.
JUICES
Lemon and lime juices are common ingredients in natural skin care lines and DIY products because of their natural chemical exfoliating properties from the ingredient citric acid. However, citrus fruit juices have a high acidity and low PH which can lead to the breakdown of the skin barrier over time. These juices can also lead to phototoxicity, an extreme irritation in the skin that occurs when any residue is exposed to the sun. Apple cider vinegar is another ingredient found in natural body care that, when used in high concentrations, can corrode skin due to high acidity levels.
CLAYS
Clays and charcoals are known for their oil-absorbing properties. These increasingly popular ingredients are finding their way into many body care products. Since continual use of clays and charcoals will absorb skin’s natural oils, the use of clays and charcoals is only beneficial in moderation. Clients living in dry climates will need to exercise additional caution as transepidermal water loss leads to excess dryness in skin which will be exacerbated by oil absorbing clays and charcoal.
SYNTHETICS
Synthetic skin care is a popular choice for professionals and their clients when it comes to controlling the shelf life of a product. While this is highly convenient, preservatives can do damage to skin. A good rule of thumb is if the ingredient is not pronounceable, it is not great to apply to the body. Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine is commonly used as a solvent and preservative; it is heavily alkaline, can be irritating to the skin and mucous membranes, and may also cause skin sensitization. Surfactants are widely used in body care products to increase the amount of suds. Yet, sodium lauryl surface along with sodium laureth sulfates are associated with skin dryness, redness, and moderate skin irritation. Potassium hydroxide is a common ingredient in many body care products, is highly irritating, and can cause a burning sensation. Overuse of surfactants along with preexisting sensitivity, extreme temperatures in baths and showers, low humidity levels, combined with abrasive exfoliants can lead to inflammation, chapped skin, and roughness.
Physical exfoliants are the most common in body scrubs. Ingredients include, nuts, shells, ground stones, baking soda, and many more. Crushed versions of these materials can be jagged and abrasive to skin. Continual disruption of the skin’s surface causes the skin barrier to breakdown over time. The skin’s microbiome is exceedingly important for healthy-looking skin; tell clients to avoid rough cleansing brushes, abrasive scrubs, and opt for gentler versions that can be used regularly.
CHEMICAL EXFOLIANTS
Chemical exfoliants such as, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, and retinols in body care products can cause photosensitivity as well as over-stimulation of skin. While highly effective in treating clients with acneic, uneven skin tone and texture, over-use can lead to the breakdown of skin over time while increasing the sensitivity of skin overall. Carefully review the types of chemical exfoliants in body care and be wary of products with multiple chemical exfoliants or high actives such as vitamin C. The combination of these ingredients has the possibility of not working well with the skin’s lipid barrier.
Over-exfoliation is a main factor when looking at ingredients and overall product use. Professionals should educate themselves and their clients on the dangers of overusing body scrubs. This can cause product sensitization, increased transepidermal water loss, and the inability for skin to retain moisture.
While skin may not show early signs of aggravation by products used daily, the cumulative effect of the damage may not show up on the skin’s surface until years later. When shopping for themselves and their clients, professionals should look for body scrub ingredients that assist skin in maintaining its integrity over the long haul and follow exfoliation with a nonactive hydrating product.
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Ashley Deckard has been a licensed, practicing aesthetician in sunny Denver, Colorado since 2013. While gaining experience in the industry, she realized there was something special about holistic skin care treatments. Deckard’s love of working with the body’s natural intelligence to heal itself led her to working with CBD. Education is at the heart of what she does; the last five years of her career have been dedicated to developing future industry professionals. Her passion lies in providing space for individuals to unwind, renew, and tune in. In addition to her practice, Deckard is the assistant director of education for Color Up CBD.
