Chemical exfoliants are big business in the beauty industry, but with countless different formulas all promising to brighten and resurface better than the next, the choices can be tricky to navigate. This article discusses the difference between enzymes, alpha, and beta hydroxy acids by addressing the benefits of each and what type of skin care needs they benefit.
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FRUIT ENZYMES
Enzymes are naturally occurring chemicals that speed up the natural chemical reactions taking place in the body without getting involved in the reactions themselves. Fruit enzymes dissolve the dead skin cells that are sitting on the surface of skin.
Enzymes differ from alpha and beta hydroxy acids because unlike acids, which can both exfoliate dead skin cells and remove living skin cells, enzymes are proteins that can only digest other proteins – meaning they can exfoliate dead skin cells and scar tissue without damaging any living tissue. Enzymes only interact with the stratum corneum.
Papaya, pomegranate, and pumpkin are at the forefront of enzymatic exfoliation. Papaya and pumpkin also contain vitamin A and C which are anti-inflammatory and soothe skin. Enzymes are the gentlest form of exfoliation; they are a miracle ingredient for clients who suffer from sensitivity. Additionally, they work slower than alpha hydroxy acids, thereby are more tolerable for clients.
UNDERSTANDING ALPHA HYDROXY ACIDS
Alpha hydroxy acids are a group of ingredients occurring either synthetically or naturally – often derived from foods such as sugar cane, sour milk, tomatoes, apples, or synthesized in a laboratory. They have a profound effect on the outer layer of skin – increasing cellular turnover and reducing the thickness of the stratum corneum by loosening bonds between skin cells. This can improve the appearance of fine lines, brighten dullness, smoothen roughness, and unblock pores for softer, more radiant skin. Alpha hydroxy acids tend to provide quick results but also have the potential to irritate skin.
Skin cells are held together by a glue-like substance known as the desmosome. Even when skin cells die off, this sticky substance holds them together. In response, skin can often appear quite dull and rough once enough dead skin cells accumulate on its surface. Alpha hydroxy acids target desmosomes in skin, breaking down their bonds. This causes the “glue” to release dead skin cells, allowing them to shed naturally.
DIVING INTO BETA HYDROXY ACIDS
Unlike alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids are oil soluble, which means that they can penetrate deep inside pores. Once in the pore, beta hydroxy acids clear any dead skin cells within the pores, while also removing excess oil. Hence, they deliver a deeper exfoliation than any alpha hydroxy acid.
A beta hydroxy acid is recommended over an alpha hydroxy acid if a client suffers from oily, acne-prone skin. These acids clear out pores of not only dead skin cells but also excess oil. Thereby, it significantly reduces the frequency and severity of breakouts. If a client’s skin type is dry, a beta hydroxy acid is not for them. They need the natural oils on their skin to keep their dry skin moisturized and protected.
The world of chemical exfoliants may seem confusing, but it is worth the effort to understand the different options. Exfoliation is important for a healthy complexion, so focus on choosing a chemical exfoliant that is well-suited for each client’s skin condition.
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