The spring season, with its lingering arctic chill and unforgiving humidity fluctuations, is an ideal time for skin care professionals to focus on supporting skin hydration and product absorption as clientele often present a dry, dull, and dehydrated complexion. As aesthetic providers, the use of innovative skin infusion modalities is essential to help clientele achieve their skincare goals.
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To review, the skin is a tough, multi-layered organ with the stratum corneum forming a multi-layered lipid matrix as a barrier to diffusion. This barrier allows only products smaller than 500daltons and lipophilic in nature to diffuse through. In the aesthetic treatment room, the best wayto achieve optimal product diffusion is through skin infusion modalities. Sonophoresis, nanoneedling, and oxygen therapies are exceptional modalities to deliver vitamins, nutrients, anddeep hydration to the skin quickly and non-invasively.
As always, it is important that each provider receive adequate training and are comfortable with the modality prior to treating clients. Each machine will have its own operating manual in terms of a specific technique, timing, and contraindications of use. Professionals should be comfortable with each treatment before treating clients. This article is for informational purposes only.
SONOPHORESIS
Sonophoresis, a skin infusion method using ultrasound, was first utilized to deliver topical medications through the skin in 1954. Although the exact mechanism of action is unknown, the technique uses ultrasound waves to temporarily disrupt the bilipid barrier of the skin, creating intracellular channels and stimulating the skin to facilitate product penetration and cellular repair. These waves can be divided into three frequency ranges: low, therapeutic, and high. All three work within the skin to create different clinical outcomes. The best frequency for product penetration is between 20 kilohertz to100 kilohertz or low frequency. However, the therapeutic range of one to three megahertz is commonly used as well. This treatment is beneficial for many skin types, as low frequencies produce minimal or low heat and has been shown to improve wrinkles, dryness, skin laxity, and even pigmentation in some clinical studies.
The ability to increase the efficacy of a product within the skin signifies that ultrasound should only be used with the highest quality ingredients and to avoid any harmful additives such as dyes, fragrances, parabens, and phthalates. At some spas, an organic, conductive gel that combines peptides, hyaluronic acid, dimethylethanolamine, and aloe is often used in ultrasound treatments. Typically, this modality is performed after a gentle, lymphatic facial massage using a water-based vitamin serum. When working with ultrasound, it is important to apply plenty of gel and to work in small segments to prevent the conductive gel from drying too quickly.
Although ultrasound therapy is an incredible addition to any treatment room, it is important to receive proper training and education before performing this modality, as the mastery of this service requires a thorough understanding of ultrasound in addition to the many treatment contraindications. For example, treating with ultrasound therapy around certain areas of the body such as the eyes, thyroid, and major blood vessels could result in permanent damage to the client.Contraindications for this service include (not limited to) dermal fillers, acne and open wounds, rosacea, herpes, diabetes, decreased sensitivity to pain and heat, pregnancy, epilepsy, bell’s palsy, cardiac conditions, pacemakers, implants, and joint replacements, cancer, hemorrhagic disease, vascular disease, anticoagulant therapy, or clotting disorders.
NANONEEDLING
Another method of product infusion with the treatment room is nanoneedling (not to be confused with its counterpart microneedling).Compared to ultrasound, nanotechnology is relatively new to the market. Ever–evolving, the application of this modality is limitless. Considered non-invasive, nanoneedling uses pyramid-shaped silicone tips attached to a needling pen to treat the outermost layer of skin. Sterile and single–use, these tips gently puncture the stratum corneum, creating small microchannels to stimulate the skin and increase product absorption by 97%. Treating up to a maximum depth of 0.25 millimeters, nanoneedling improves tone, texture, pore size, and skin hydration while smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. Nanoneedling is unique for the instant plump and glow it gives to the skin, as well as its versatility within the treatment room.By itself, nanoneedling can be performed every two weeks. It may also be combined with other services such as light therapy, ultrasound, microdermabrasion, microcurrent, and so on.
Naturally, this service flows well when performed after an appropriate gentle facial exfoliation of the client. Do not perform extractions prior to nanoneedling. Next, make sure the skin is clean, then prepare the appropriate water-based serum and the pen for treatment. Working in small two-by-two sections, first apply the serum to the treatment area generously and evenly, then begin cross-hatching the pen uniformly over the skin. No pressure is needed as the pen should glide perpendicularly over the skin. Maintain gentle, yet full contact of the pen tip with the treatment area and support the skin, holding it taut. Nanoneedling is an excellent modality to awaken the skin and can even be used gently around the delicate areas of the eyes (do not treat over the eyelids) and on the lips as long as the client can tolerate it. There should be no pain with this treatment, though very slight erythema is common. Contraindications for nanoneedling include keloids, raised or new scarring, pregnancy, diabetes, facial injections within two weeks of the treatment date, anticoagulant therapy, immune suppression, active acne, or skin infections.
OXYGEN THERAPY
The final modality this article discusses is oxygen therapy. Oxygen therapy is probably the most versatile method of skin infusion within the aesthetic realm. Commonly used in wound healing, oxygen therapy was later adapted for cosmetic purposes. With over 50 years of clinical practice, the use of topical, transcutaneous oxygen therapy is well studied, though in medicinal wound healing it remains controversial. Proponents of the medicinal treatment method postulate that topical oxygen increases collagen formation, encourages the epithelization of the skin and controls bacterial growth in healing wounds.
Cosmetically, the topical application of oxygen sprays is shown to refresh and rejuvenate the skin, increasing microcirculation. Normally, these sprays are a combination of concentrated oxygen infused with vitamins and nutrients, designed to support and nourish the skin. In the treatment room, practitioners reach for topical oxygen therapy as part of a multifaceted approach to skincare, as the treatment requires no contact with the skin and has minimal product waste. Often, water-based hydrating essences and serums are utilized with this modality, although the use of mild alpha and beta hydroxy acids is not unheard of. Much like nanoneedling, oxygen therapy within the treatment room gives the skin a gorgeous glow that is perfect prior to weddings and events, as the service requires no downtime and provides immediate results. In addition, oxygen therapy is particularly useful for acne clientele, as the application does not irritate the skin and is one of the only infusion modalities that can be appropriately used on skin conditions to support both healing and hydration.
This treatment is often applied at the end of a facial service, following the application of a light moisturizer. To use oxygen spray in the treatment room, begin by working in small circles, following the lymphatic channels of the face. Carefully cover the eyes with gauze and do not allow the spray to go up the nose or in the mouth of the client. Overall, oxygen therapy is relatively gentle for most, and clients often enjoy the invigorative, cooling sensation of this service.
In summation, there are several exceptionally innovative treatments that medical spa physicians, nurse practitioners, and skincare professionals may use for skin infusion to provide clients with exquisite results, thereby increasing client loyalty and return visits. Whether utilizing sonophoresis for dryness and laxity, nanoneedling for a lovely all-over glow, or oxygen therapy for tough acneic cases – all are exceptional modalities to deliver vitamins, nutrients, and deep hydration to support the skin beautifully and non-invasively with minimal downtime.
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Kristen N.M. Johnson is an award-winning registered nurse, licensed aesthetician, and co-owner of The Eclipse Spa in Westminster, Maryland. With over 10 years of experience in the luxury spa industry, Johnson is passionate about creating an incredibly unique and indulgent experience for each client. She specializes in the development, education, and implementation of innovative treatment protocols. She holds advanced training and certifications in holistic and integrative health, microneedling, clinical skin care and treatments, nutrition, facial cupping, gua sha, hot stone therapy, advanced chemical peels, cosmetic injectables, facial reflexology, and is an Usui reiki master and teacher.
