The first preparation before a foundation is placed on the skin is to properly clean the skin. I always recommend using a cleanser that has non-drying additives and can reach deep beneath the skin’s outer layer to bring out environmental dirt and residue from cosmetic applications. My rule of thumb, “The cleaner the skin, the more the foundation will lock onto the skin to promote a fresh and longer lasting look.”
Most people need, and should use, a moisturizer after cleaning their skin. Because of the sun and environmental elements the skin is exposed to, I also encourage the use of a sunscreen before the foundation is applied.
Apply the moisturizer and wait 60 to 90 seconds before adding the sunscreen. If you apply both products too quickly before they have a chance to penetrate into the skin, you’re basically mixing the two products together, subsequently reducing the effects. The same can happen when using a moisturizer that has a built-in sun block. I discourage use of products that combine these two elements, as the best results are when they’re applied separately from each other. If you want to nourish the skin, apply an evening moisturizer before going to bed. This will penetrate deep into the skin while you’re sleeping, and allow the product eight or more hours to absorb into the skin. Follow through with a lighter daytime moisturizer before applying the sunscreen and make-up. This will insure that your skin is getting that extra added protection throughout the day.
As a film and television make-up artist, I’ve had the opportunity of seeing what works and what doesn’t. With new formulations today, I urge using a silicone-based primer. This can be applied after using your moisturizer and sunscreen, locking them in, and will further protect your skin from sun, wind, and other environmental pollutants that are in the air. This will also aid in slowing down weathering and aging of your skin, and really does help fill in fine lines and crevices.
When it comes time to apply your foundation, you’ll find that you do not need to apply as much, as the silicone-based primer has created a smoother texture to the skin. When I was working on location in films, we were often in remote areas where the sun and wind were our greatest challenges in keeping the actors skin looking fresh and natural. As make-up artists, we had to become master magicians. We retrieved age-old “secrets” of make-up artistry, added our own formulation, and brought these “secrets” into the 21st century. In doing our homework and research, one of the areas we realized would help maintain a protective barrier for the skin and still allow a natural, smooth texture was with a silicone-based primer.
Remember that the foundation is the skin’s “overcoat.” Most people make the mistake of over applying a foundation. This can easily create a “manufactured” look, with the color tone becoming more dramatic and uneven with each application. The foundation should always be applied with a professional non-latex foam sponge.
With the foundation in place, follow through by using a light, non-color, translucent powder to set. Again, for best professional results, use a professional powder puff, not a powder brush, and with a patting motion, gently pat the face. This will set the foundation. You’re now ready to apply your blush, eyebrows, eyeshadow, and lip color.
The skin is only as healthy as the time and preparation that goes into keeping it nourished. If you follow these simple steps (moisturizer, sunscreen, and silicone based primer), your skin will maintain a healthier glow, smoother texture, and your make-up have longer longevity on the skin throughout the day.
Maurice Stein is founder, owner, and operator of CINEMA SECRETS in Burbank, Calif., and recognized as one of Hollywood’s elite make-up artists, educators and entrepreneurs. Stein designed and developed the Ultimate Cinema Secrets product line for the general public, film/TV industry, and for the medical community. For more information, or to purchase product, please visit www.cinemasecrets.com. If you would like to direct questions to Maurice Stein, or to inquire on his lecture and seminar availability, please email him at maurice@cinemasecrets.com, or call 818-846-0579.